Getting vertical requires, among other things, a climbing harness. A harness is the contact point between the climber
and rope and the belayer and rope. It endures a tremendous amount of stress when a climber falls, and distributes
the majority of that force through the climber's body, reducing the chance of injury.
Climbing harnesses come in three basic styles:
seat harness
chest harness
full body harness
Seat Harnesses
The most popular design. Their advantage is that the force of a lead fall is transferred directly through the
thighs and is borne by the strongest muscle group of the human body: the legs.
For cragging or gym climbing, a harness with fixed leg loops is perfect. On long multi-pitch or aid climbs you
may want a thicker, more padded harness for added comfort, and extra gear loops for racking. A fully adjustable
harness offers a customized fit and can accommodate bulky insulated clothing.
Chest Harnesses
Used for high alpine climbing on both rock and ice, ski mountaineering, glacier travel, expedition, and mountain
rescue. In these extreme settings a chest harness prevents an injured or unconscious climber from hanging upside
down. A chest harness is not designed to endure the impact of a fall. Its primary function is to keep a fallen
climber upright. A chest harness must always be used in combination with a seat harness.
There is some concern about the potential for whiplash when using a chest harness to arrest a falling climber.
When traveling on steep snow fields or glaciers, there is also the possibility that a climber who is catching a
fall could be pulled down face first, as opposed to waist first, making it difficult to self-arrest.
Full Body Harnesses
These are one-piece units that combine the features of a seat harness and a chest harness. Like a seat/chest combo,
a full body harness prevents a climber from tipping backwards. This aids rescue and reduces the potential of impact-related
spinal injuries.
A full body harness is typically used in mountaineering situations where a climber wears a heavy pack. Like a
seat harness, it should be comfortable to walk in and provide unrestricted freedom of movement.
Materials and Construction
Webbing used for harnesses is made of flat nylon that is strategically bar-tacked (a super-strong industrial method
of stitching material together) at contact points and load bearing surfaces.
Buckles tend to be made from carbon steel or aluminum. Consult the manual before using your harness. Most
buckles need to be doubled-back in order to be safely secured, others have an auto-locking closure. Do not assume
the buckles on your harness are secure. Double check yourself and your partner. Many climbers have been hurt or
killed because they failed to properly secure and check their harness.
The Belay Loop is the circle of nylon webbing in the front and center of the harness. This loop is where
you attach the belay device. When arresting a fall or rappelling, the belay loop bears the bulk of the load.
Like carabiners, the belay loop is tested and given a strength rating measured in kN. The nylon webbing used to
build the belay loop is incredibly strong and will withstand loads in excess of several thousand pounds.
Although it's possible to tie in to the belay loop, most manufacturers recommend that you thread the rope through
the leg and waist, areas that are padded to prevent abrasion. Always follow the manufacturer's directions for tying in and belaying.
Fitting a Climbing Harnesses
Select a harness based on intended use and fit. Will you primarily climb sport routes or long, trad routes? Each style of climbing poses different demands on your harness. Regardless, the waist should fit snugly across the hipbones. Most manufacturers
recommend that re-threaded straps have at least a 10cm tail when closed. Check the recommendations for your harness. The rise (the distance
between the leg loops and waist belt) should also be comfortable. An improper fitting harness can ruin a perfectly good day of climbing!
Whether fitted or adjustable, the leg loops should be snug but not tight. You should just be able to slip a hand
between the leg loop and the upper thigh. This leeway will allow for layering in cold weather. During regular use, it should not have any pressure points or hot spots
around the waist or legs. If possible, hang in the harness
for a few minutes to get a good idea of the fit and feel of the product in consideration.
Check out the Black Diamond Harness Size Chart here
Women's Harnesses
Some companies have designed harnesses that accommodate women- specific geometry, like the Black Diamond Primrose. A women's harness is usually
longer in the rise (distance from the leg loops to the waistbelt). They are also designed to fit a proportionally
smaller waist and slightly larger leg diameter. The width of the waistbelt is adjusted to prevent it from cutting
into the top of the hips or the bottom of the ribcage. As
always, it's best to try several harnesses to determine the best overall fit.
Stay Safe Check and Maintain Your Harness-
Your safety depends on the condition of your harness and its proper use. The harness material (nylon) degrades with exposure to sunlight, moisture, perspiration etc. As a result, three to five years is generally accepted as the lifespan of any harness, but you should carefully monitor the condition of your harness. When in doubt, replace it. Your life is worth it!
Before You Climb
If you climb regularly, visually inspect your harness for signs of wear prior to each outing. Ensure that the
webbing is not cut, abraded, or worn through. This is especially important for the fabric covering the tie-in
points and the belay loop. It is time to retire it if the condition seems at all doubtful.
Note: Retire your harness after a serious fall. The webbing may have stretched beyond its elastic limit and have invisible material fatigue.
When Climbing
Harnesses have specific methods for tying in (threading the rope through the harness) and securing the harness
around the climbers waist. Most buckles need to be doubled-back: the nylon waistbelt runs through the buckle and
passes back over itself to ensure maximum security. Every time you pick up a new harness, read the instructions
carefully and follow them. A surprising number of climbing accidents result from people forgetting to properly buckle up their
harness! Check your buckles and check your partner's buckles every time you put on a harness and after taking a lunch break at the crag.
When You Get Home
Harnesses should not be exposed to caustic solutions, acids, sharp objects, or excessive light. If you are a
stickler for hygiene and want to wash your harness, wash it by hand with mild soap in lukewarm water and hang to
dry in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated place. Store your harness in a dark well-ventilated area at room temperature
and regular humidity.
